- Messages
- 23,844
- Reaction score
- 2,434
- Points
- 313
You shouldn't have even said the stuff about $300-$350 tbh because that immediately tells him #1: You're willing to lower the price fairly drastically and #2: If you're willing to take 50% of that initial price then you can (aka will/should) go lower "for a friend" like him because he knows you. That $100 offer was a joke and I'd avoid doing any deals with him in the future as he clearly isn't interested in being fair with you. It takes two to tango/show respect to one another to make a deal. Also his not having sent the Paypal yet as payment is a red flag but I'd check up with his wife and let her know the situation ASAP before it goes too long.
I'd say in any sale, your goal is obviously 100% but your aim should be 80% minimum. The people who accept 50-70% of a "best offer" are doing a disservice to themselves. They've either way overpriced it and screwed themselves out of a realistic 'Best Offer' or they are simply taking one of the earliest offers they get, always the low balls that first come their way and not having the patience to wait it out. If you think about Auctions, nobody ever starts their bid on an item at $5,000 if the item is worth $8,000. They start at $100 or $500. Same goes for Best Offers. I had been watching a Kenny Golloday RPA a long while ago and offered $23 for it (going rate of sales then). Went up to $27 and the seller ended up selling it to somebody else for around $35, within a few $ of initial price, a week or two later IIRC so good on that seller for waiting it out and getting the $$ rather than just taking my initial offer. I've also thrown out BO not expecting them to be accepted because I knew they were pretty low ball and had them accepted. Great for me, not so much perhaps for the seller.
Example: Raw 1980-81 Bird/Johnson/Magic Separated Card. Both sales were $140. First listing was $200 (70% of initial price) and second listing was $250 (56% of initial price). The second seller screwed himself out of $35 by not targeting a minimum 70% BO. If you know roughly what a card will sell at or around, it's best to set your initial offer close to that price unless it's a hot card that you can afford to really raise the price on.
I don't know how it is on eBay or MySlabs but I'm sure there's a minimum you can set for Best Offers to screen through to avoid low ball offers.
As a heads up, there's a new 130point.com Search for Cards including MySlabs
I'd say in any sale, your goal is obviously 100% but your aim should be 80% minimum. The people who accept 50-70% of a "best offer" are doing a disservice to themselves. They've either way overpriced it and screwed themselves out of a realistic 'Best Offer' or they are simply taking one of the earliest offers they get, always the low balls that first come their way and not having the patience to wait it out. If you think about Auctions, nobody ever starts their bid on an item at $5,000 if the item is worth $8,000. They start at $100 or $500. Same goes for Best Offers. I had been watching a Kenny Golloday RPA a long while ago and offered $23 for it (going rate of sales then). Went up to $27 and the seller ended up selling it to somebody else for around $35, within a few $ of initial price, a week or two later IIRC so good on that seller for waiting it out and getting the $$ rather than just taking my initial offer. I've also thrown out BO not expecting them to be accepted because I knew they were pretty low ball and had them accepted. Great for me, not so much perhaps for the seller.
Example: Raw 1980-81 Bird/Johnson/Magic Separated Card. Both sales were $140. First listing was $200 (70% of initial price) and second listing was $250 (56% of initial price). The second seller screwed himself out of $35 by not targeting a minimum 70% BO. If you know roughly what a card will sell at or around, it's best to set your initial offer close to that price unless it's a hot card that you can afford to really raise the price on.
I don't know how it is on eBay or MySlabs but I'm sure there's a minimum you can set for Best Offers to screen through to avoid low ball offers.
As a heads up, there's a new 130point.com Search for Cards including MySlabs
Also, unfortunately, the PSA 9 Manny Ramirez came but was cracked all to hell to the point I basically had to just pull the card out as raw 
Wasn't the fault of the seller as my Oasis CD also had a good hairline crack in it and that came from Amazon so the USPS did a shitty job of trying to not throw bigger boxes onto smaller ones apparently.